For what is referred to as a
desert, Rajasthan is fairly populated; its landscape scattered with a number
of villages and hamlets, telltale signs of tree groves and populations of
cattle beings the indication that there is a settlement is close proximity.
The typical village has always been difficult to spot till one is actually
upon it. The simplest hamlets, the most basic form of residence with a way
of life that has probably remained unchanged since centuries, consists of a
collection of huts that are circular, and have thatched roofs. The walls are
covered with a plaster of clay, cow dung, and hay, making a termite-free
(antiseptic) façade that blends in with the sand of the countryside
around it. Boundaries for houses and land holdings, called barras, are made
of the dry branches of a nettle-like shrub, the long, sharp thorns a
deterrent for straying cattle.
If a hamlet looks bleak, it is
hardly surprising: the resources for building these homes, which are the
most eco-friendly living unit, are made with what is available at hand. In
Rajasthan, particularly in its western desert regions, every twig has a
value.
A village that is a little larger may have pucca houses,
or larger living units, usually belonging to the village zamindar
(landowner) family. Consisting of courtyards and a large nora or cattle
enclosure attached to one side or at the entrance, these houses are made of
a mixture of sun baked clay bricks covered with a plaster of lime. Floors
are made with a mixture of pounded lime, limestone pebbles, and water.
Decorative facades in such units are notable for their textures in plaster
and the use of simple lime colors to create vibrant patterns. These homes
capture for many of its residents, the only cosmos they know. For the woman,
but for visits within the village community, the only social occasions were
the pilgrimages, usually combined with fairs.
It is when the
village dwellers step out of their homes that the stark desert breaks into a
feast of color, turbans bob past in saffron and red; skirts billow beneath
the veil.
The jewellery that glints on their foreheads and arms
adds to the kaleidoscope of their magentas and oranges, their blues and
greens. Trims of gold ribbon add to this feast of color, and bangles jangle,
not just on wrist, but also all the way up to the arms above the elbow. Into
the bleak, baking hamlets of the desert, the people live a life that is
palpable, carting in their jaunty strides, the spirit that is their destiny.
Each village houses several communities, the various castes
creating a structure of interdependence based on the nature of their work.
While changes are being wrought in this structure, with ceilings on land
holdings, and with the young seeking employment opportunities in towns
distant from their villages, the social fabric has still not been fractured.
At the head of the village settlement are usually the Rajputs, the warrior
race whose kings ruled, till recently, over these lands. The Rajputs served
their kings, joining their armies, and raising their cavalries, but an
attendant pursuit was agriculture. Often, they employed labor to work on
their extensive fields, and kept cattle for dairy produce: in fact, the
cattle density in Rajasthan is very high, and milk from desert settlements
is supplied to the large cities close to the state, including Delhi.
The Rajput homes, therefore, came to be the fulcrum around which village
life revolved. In their employ were the bards and minstrels who sing their
praises in verse and song. Tradesmen supplied them, and the others in the
community, with goods required for their daily lives, not much was required
though, since they grew their grains own lands. The potters and carpenters
had their separate enclaves in the village. If the village were large
enough, there were also ornament makers and cloth dyers and printers. The
priests of the Brahmin families cast horoscopes, performed the elaborate
rituals of their festive ceremonies and marriages, and served at the
temples.